Negeira to Olveiroa   34km


A big distance day heading west towards the sea needed a good breakfast as foundation. The Albergue was also a hotel so you could have the pilgrim’s breakfast or the hotel version. It was no contest. It was dark at 7.45am when I walked out of town:

I fell to thinking about the dark. About the night. A lot of people – perhaps most people – are unfamiliar with the dark. It is only if you wild camp that you get to know the night. Camping in campsites is no good. Or if you have been brought up in the countryside and have the walk home from the party perhaps you will have learnt about the night! 

I have been very comfortable with my early morning starts in the dark. When I was younger we used to set off up Alpine Peaks in the starlight. The fundamental rule was to survey the route away from the hut in the light the previous afternoon. Otherwise you could end up….  well who knows where!

The dark is an old friend of mine. We are good mates. 

It was a grey morning so the daylight came slowly. There was a short section along some burnt forest. It was not burnt on the other side of the path. 

The markers on this section don’t have any graffiti on them which is a disappointment and the distance measurements have not been stolen. To be honest it’s better without them. The distance just doesn’t seem to go down quick enough. 

In France the shell markers were used very carefully and you could tell by their positioning in which direction to walk. Here in Spain they don’t use this elegant, simple system and have to add an arrow as well:


I found this stop sign laying in the ditch. I wondered who had knocked it over. They obviously hadn’t stopped! Someone had added the word ‘Never’. 

The countryside is getting greener as I travel nearer the sea:


I could be in England with a view like this but I certainly wouldn’t be wearing just shorts and t-shirt and sun hat at the end of October. 
The old grain stores in this part are build from natural stone. The weight resting on those stone pillars must be enormous. I started to wonder what kind of foundations they have to construct to cope with this weight. I wonder what lies under the ground. 


There are some unfortunate names of places if you speak English:

The last part of the day was along this busy road:There must have been at least two cars every five minutes. 

It was a long day’s walk. I used my ‘Pilgrim Pace’ setting and bounced along happily all day. When my energy began to flag a little I boosted my energy levels with a few carefully chosen music tracks. I could list them here but you probably have never heard of the artists. I thought that maybe I would make a CD of the songs I have come to rely on the most….

It would probably be too revealing!

I do have a bit of a gripe. I know gripes are not allowed on the Camino. Everything is supposed to be sweetness and light. But…..

I would really like to have a word with the person who designed this very common shower control that seems to have been almost universally adopted. 

The arm twists to the left and right to control the temperature. That’s good. The arm lifts out to turn the water on. So when you are trying to get under the shower head you bang against the arm and switch off the water! Sigh…….

Please, please, please can you change the design?

Location 42.9670, -9.0387

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